Stuff the freezer with chilies rellenos for the long winter

My freezer has been broken for two months. In my household, this qualifies as a crisis. Normally I spend the waning weeks of the summer harvest season cooking up tomato sauces and assembling casseroles like eggplant parmesan and lasagna to squirrel away in the ice box.During the bleakest days of winter, I pull one of these babies out and heat it up in the oven. As the aroma fills the kitchen, I shut my eyes and relive distant summer evenings. My daydream is a little sanitized: there are no mosquitoes, no Spare the Air days and no summer resort related traffic jams.Reliving the succulent flavors of summer on an icy February evening is a luxury in itself. And it's a lot cheaper than booking a vacation to a warm-weather holiday destination.This week after a visit from the refrigerator repairman, I'm making chilies rellenos for hibernal enjoyment. This is an onerous exercise - I usually break it up into two days, but it is one of my favorite meals.The cavities of roasted Anaheim or Poblano chilies are stuffed with cheese or other filling and then coated in a fluffy egg batter. These deep fried bundles, oozing with melted cheese, are typically served with a tomatoey broth. I always make a big batch - some for now and some for the freezer.Below, I describe the process of making chilies rellenos. You can adapt it for however many chilies you want to make. If you're investing the time, consider making extra to freeze for later.The chili: Chili poblano, with its varying spiciness, is the chili - or chile in Spanish - of choice. Anaheims, New Mexico and bell peppers may be substituted. To peel, char the skin of the peppers over gas flame or in broiler, turning occasionally with tongs until the skin is blackened all over. Transfer to a paper bag and let stand, covered, until cool enough to handle. Peel peppers, then make a small incision in each chile and cut out the interior seed pod just under the stem. Scoop out and discard the seeds being careful not to rip the chili. For the cheese, select a melty one. At a Mexican grocery store you can ask for queso (which means cheese) ranchero or casero. I also like to use Monterey Jack and sharp cheddar. Cut the cheese in strips just under the length of the pepper. Slip desired amount of the cheese strips through the slit in the chile and then close the opening with a toothpick.Cooking the battered chilies: Separate one egg for every large chili. Mix the yolks and beat the whites until stiff. Fold the yolks into the whites, along with one tablespoon of flour per egg.In a large frying pan, heat cooking oil about 2-inches deep about 375º F. Holding the chili by the stem, dredge the chili in flour, shake off excess, and dip in batter, using a spatula to coat if necessary. Fry until golden, approximately 1-2 minutes per side. Drain on paper towels and season with salt.Christina Abuelo is market manager for the Foothill Farmers' Market Association. For information check the Web site www.foothillfarmersmarket.com or call (530) 823-6183.