End holiday decadence with a port

To my way of thinking, nothing punctuates a great meal like a glass of port. Chocolate mousse? Fuggedaboutit. Make mine a nice tawny or ruby or even a white port. Any port in a storm will do, thank you.Ports are, of course, from Portugal. The Duro River region in the northern part of the country is the source of port, flowing out of the country through the port city of Oporto. We can thank the British for introducing the world to this wonderful beverage. While frequently at odds with the French during the 17th and 18th centuries, Bordeauxs and Clarets were often embargoed, so wine lovers turned to the Portuguese for a more reliable source of the grape. To help stabilize the wine during transport, Port was fortified with brandy. This increases the alcohol content, which made it even more desirable to the always-cold British.Like parmesan cheese and French Champagne, Americans have managed to take a purely European product and interpret it in a whole new way. Port is being made in California, including the Foothills, and while the Portuguese vintners no doubt bristle at the notion, most of it is wonderful.In my opinion, the best port in California comes from Prager Winery & Port Works in Napa. I tasted all of their stuff a week ago when Winemaker Peter Prager visited Auburn. My favorite is the Prager Napa Valley Noble Companion Tawny Port, a non-vintage port that is comprised of wines from across the 1990s. Past Prager tawnies have been aged at least 10 years, which produces a mellow, golden wine, with a bouquet of orange rinds and cherries and flavors of orange zest, dried cherries and caramel. And, oh, you?ve got to love the rich, nut flavors. This Orange County Fair gold medal winner is a steal at $45 (750 ml).The new Prager Petite Sirah Port ($34.95, 750 ml) is also a treasure. Made from 100% Lodi petite sirah grapes, you get flavors of cherry, vanilla, chocolate and a hint of tobacco. For a change of pace, try the 1999 Aria Napa Valley White Port ($45, 750 ml), made from chardonnay fruit. This semi-sweet port offers flavors of hazelnut, chocolate and caramelized pear. Yummy. There are a number of wonderful ports produced in the Foothills:The Jodar 2400? port ($20, 375ml) is one of the finest around. Dark and inky, you get intense cherry fruit on the palate, with subtle overtones of anise and chocolate.Jeff Meyers? new Zinfandel Port ($13.99, 750 ml) from Montevina is a huge smokin? value. This luscious port is loaded with flavors... raisin, vanilla and cocoa dominate.The New World Port (($24, 375 ml) from Madrona is a perennial favorite. Paul Bush has created a port that is velvety smooth from Portuguese varieties grown in California.Right here in Auburn, Mt. Vernon Winery produces a pair of ports. My favorite is the 2001 Amador Country Vintage Port ($24, 375 ml). This one is made from five Portuguese varieties generating huge berry flavors, with a warm, lasting finish.If you have a hankering for the real deal, think about investing in a bottle of the 2001 Quinta do Vesuvio Vintage Port ($54, 750 ml, 20 percent alcohol). This stuff is made the old-fashioned way; the grapes are ?foot-trodden? in granite containers with up to 50 people crushing in each one. Just 2,000 cases made for worldwide distribution.Wine writer Gary Moffat owns Carpe Vino, a wine shop and tasting room in Old Town Auburn. He can be reached at (530) 823-0320.