History, beauty and hardship on the Lassen-Applegate trail

Editor's note: Colfax resident Jack Raudy of the California Association of 4 Wheel Drive Clubs, Inc. shares his experience on the historic 14th consecutive Lassen-Applegate Emigrant Trail Ride, a 200-mile, three-day journey that routes from Imlay, Nev., to Surprise Valley near Cedarville in California. This is the second story of this two-parts series. After celebrating the conclusion of the first day on the historic Lassen-Applegate Emigrant Trail over dinner, the following morning we were back on the trail where we visited the site where Peter Lassen was murdered. Lassen was slain on April 26, 1859 in the Black Rock Canyon as he was prospecting for silver. He was traveling with Edward Clapper and Americus Wyatt. Clapper was also killed, while Wyatt escaped. There are many theories about the death of the two; however, none of them have ever been proven. Around noon on the second day we descended down a hill into what I thought was an oasis or a mirage. I soon learned that what we all were seeing was Soldiers Meadow, which today is a working ranch and guest lodge. Ride organizer Warner Anderson said that in 1865 Camp McGarry was established at the location of the current ranch headquarters. It was a U.S. Army winter outpost with a mission of protecting traveling pioneers and freight wagons from indian attacks. Stone buildings and stables remain standing from the Army camp at Soldiers Meadow.Our next stop was Fly Canyon. It was at this point that the emigrants had to unhitch their oxen and the wagons were led down the mountainside by ropes. In his diary, early pioneer Joseph Bruff wrote: "The road terminated, as it were, at the edge of the very apex of this hill, and from a big rock on the left of the trail, I looked down, and for a while thought it must be the jumping-off place. "Well, it was only about 200 yards, very deep sand and loose stones. We double locked the wheels and teamsters and assistants carefully led the mules, and one after the other, slowly and successfully, was the entire train taken on the plateau below."Our next 16 miles or so took us through the picturesque High Rock Canyon. I had read about it and heard stories about it, but until you actually experience it, it is hard to describe. On Dec. 30, 1843, John C. Fremont described what he was seeing. "On both sides, the mountains showed often stupendous and curious-looking rocks, which at several places so narrowed the valley, that scarcely a pass was left for the camp. It was a singular place to travel through — shut up in the earth, a sort of chasm, the little strip of grass under our feet, the rough walls of bare rock on either hand, and the narrow strip of sky above."High Rock Canyon was created some 17 million years ago from volcanic activity from the Columbia River Plateau that deposited the lava rock. It created the 300-foot high walls on both sides of the canyon that visitors can witness today.We finally arrived at Stevens Camp, where High Rock Trekker club members were waiting for us with a hot meal, hot showers, and time to gather and talk about the two days on the trail. Dinner this night consisted of a choice of tri-tip steak or barbecued chicken, three different salads and a special desert prepared by Anderson's wife, Nancy. Dennis Austin of Los Altos, Calif. made the trip with his wife, Jan. "Four wheelers seem to like eating off-road as much as they like driving off road," Dennis Austin said. "The food was first rate and made on the spot — not Safeway catered. I know it takes talent, experience, organization, and tireless volunteers."For me this trail is special and as a historian, I get to relive the trail by thinking of John C. Fremont, Kit Carson, Alex Goodey and Thomas 'Brokenhand' Fitzpatrick.' These brave men worked their way down High Rock Canyon for three days in December of 1843. They stood at the mouth of Fly Canyon on Jan. 1, 1844 looking south at the Black Rock Desert and were freezing in the winter cold. However, the cold saved their lives as it allowed them to see all of the hot springs giving off steam clouds."After breakfast on the final day, with Groups 1 and 2 together now, we headed toward the California border passing the Massacre Ranch, the famous Singular Rock, Painted Point and Forty Nine Pass. It was near noon when we arrived in Cedarville, where High Rock Trekkers' volunteers provided the final lunch meal for their guests.The High Rock Trekkers club supports the California Association of 4 Wheel Drive Clubs, Inc.'s Conservation & Education Foundation and the Blue Ribbon Coalition with portions of the proceeds from the Lassen-Applegate Emigrant Trail Ride.For information, or to registration for the 15th annual Lassen-Applegate Trail Ride in July 2009, contact Warner Anderson at (775) 629-9232 or or Ron Vance at (775) 246-4099. You may also visit the club's Web site at www.highrocktrekkers.com.