Eggplants are misunderstood veggies - er, fruits

Pity the poor eggplant. I mean, here is this royal orb of magnificence, and it has a hard time mustering a fan base. OK, the Arabs, who received this "egg fruit" from China around the fourth century, are the exception. They've probably devised the greatest number of dishes to make from eggplant. In parts of the Middle East, it's considered part of the "bride price" to have a repertoire of dozens of eggplant recipes.But around here, I see eggplants languishing unclaimed on the tables at the farmers' markets. Restaurant menus are notably lacking this vegetable, and many of my compatriots are completely unaware as to how to prepare it.Speaking of purple fruits ...The Placer Gold Slow Food Convivium will celebrate the wine-grape harvest with a vineyard dinner at Ophir Wines' scenic Gold Blossom Vineyard from 5 to 8 p.m. Saturday, Sept. 10. Featuring fire-roasted foods, heirloom tomatoes, wine tasting and live music, the event costs $40 per person, with wines by the glass for $5 each. Advance tickets may be purchased mailing payment to Placer Gold Slow Food, P.O. Box 3343, Auburn, CA 95604. For information, call (530) 823-6183.A native of India, the eggplant is a member of the so-called deadly nightshade family, making it a close relative of the tomato, pepper and potato. Technically a fruit, it's at its peak right now, so now is the best time to give eggplant a chance.Sautéed Eggplant with Cherry Tomatoes1 small eggplant (about 1 pound)1 ½ teaspoons salt2-3 tablespoons olive oil2 large garlic cloves, minced1 cup cherry tomatoes, about half sliced in halfsalt and pepper to taste¼ cup basil leaves, coarsely choppedCut the eggplant into ½-inch cubes and place in a colander. Toss with salt and let sit for 30 minutes. Rinse the eggplant with cold water to remove salt, then drain. Heat olive oil in a large non-stick skillet. Add eggplant and cook 10-12 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the garlic and cherry tomatoes, and cook 5 minutes more. Mix in the salt, pepper and fresh basil and serve hot. Serves 4.Eggplant Cooked in Sake6 to 8 small Japanese eggplants2-4 tablespoons oil¼ cup sake2 tablespoons sugar1 tablespoon soy sauceWash eggplants and trim off stems, then cut in 3/4-inch slices. Heat oil over medium-high heat and sauté until eggplant starts to brown. (Add more oil if necessary.) Add sake, sugar and soy sauce. Cover tightly and cook over low heat until sauce is thickened. Eggplant Parmesan: A Labor of LoveEggplant parmigiana, also called eggplant parmesan, is a perfect main course served alongside or atop plain pasta. A warning: This divine dish can take a several hours to make, especially if you elect to make your own tomato sauce. 2 ½ lbs (about 3 medium) eggplant, cut in 1/3-inch rounds Several tablespoons salt 1 cup flour ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon pepper 5 beaten eggs or 2/3 cup milk, buttermilk, or thinned yogurt 3½ cup Italian or Japanese bread crumbs Oil for frying 5-7 cups tomato sauce, preferably homemade 1 lb (preferably fresh) mozzarella cheese, sliced thin 2/3 cup grated parmesan cheese Sprinkle eggplant slices with salt, and let stand in a colander with a weight (maybe a heavy bowl) pressing down on them for 30-60 minutes. Rinse off the salt and blot each slice dry. As you heat ½-inch of oil in a frying pan, cover plates or tray with several layers of paper towels. Arrange a line of three bowls containing 1) flour mixed with salt and pepper, 2) eggs and 3) bread crumbs mixed with ½ cup Parmesan cheese. Eggplant will be coated in this dry-wet-dry order. Dredge the slices with flour, then shake off excess. Cover completely with egg and let the excess drip off. Finally, dredge in bread crumb mixture until evenly coated, then tamp. Fry a single layer of eggplant slices until golden brown, turn, and fry the other side. When the eggplant is tender, transfer with tongs to the paper towels to drain, and turn to remove excess oil. Repeat with remaining slices, adding more oil to pan as needed.Preheat oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Cover the bottom of the baking dish with a few spoonfuls of tomato sauce. Add one layer of eggplant (about 1/3), then layer with 1/3 of the mozzarella slices and a sprinkling of Parmesan cheese. Cover with tomato sauce; using the back of a large spoon. Repeat with another layer of eggplant, cheese and sauce. On the third layer, cover the remaining eggplant with sauce, then top with the rest of the mozzarella, and another sprinkling of Parmesan cheese. Bake, covered, for 30 minutes, until heated through and bubbly. Remove cover and bake another 10 minutes until cheese lightly browns. Serve with pasta and meatballs if desired. Serves 8.Christina Abuelo is market manager of the Foothill Farmers' Market Association. She can be reached at (530) 823-6183.